Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameron
Nuggets:
0:06:31 – What they climbed on today
0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 2020
0:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering
0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering
0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew
0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days
0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d
0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d
0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?
0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder
0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?
0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US
0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion
0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’
0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?
0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up
0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)
1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?
1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up
1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers
1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?
1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch
1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)
1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering
1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles
1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering
1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?
1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip
1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career
2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V18
2:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s
2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave
2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career
2:17:33 – Flow state
2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing
2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement
EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating
EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story
EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style
EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle
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