Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/magnus-midtbo
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:06:39) – Burning out on competitions, and starting his career as a YouTuber
(00:10:45) – Who is Magnus’s audience?
(00:13:10) – Editing and perfectionism
(00:15:59) – The hard work behind success
(00:18:05) – Pacing and music, and making the films personal
(00:21:09) – Being an interovert as a YouTuber
(00:23:35) – Why YouTube Channels die out
(00:26:16) – Making other types of videos outside of climbing, and not being afraid of trying new things
(00:28:05) – Parallels between YouTube and climbing, and logging routes on 8a.nu
(00:29:32) – Being known for his strength, and suffering during collaborations
(00:30:19) – Free soloing with Alex Honnold
(00:32:45) – Patron question from Cody: Which collaborations were the most fun?
(00:35:59) – Jujimufu
(00:37:54) – What Magnus learned from collaborating with Juji and Tom
(00:39:37) – Getting criticism from climbers, and letting go of worrying about what other people think
(00:40:49) – Anton the Russian Ninja Warrior
(00:42:09) – What Magnus has learned from spending time with Adam Ondra, and surrounding yourself with people who make you feel lazy
(00:44:19) – Finding balance vs. focusing on one thing
(00:50:58) – A week in Magnus’s life, and why he doesn’t film many outdoor videos
(00:56:37) – Common themes between top climbers, and how many of us overcomplicate our training
(00:58:23) – What climbing means to Magnus now, and wanting to climb a V15 (8C) boulder
(01:00:04) – Quitting coffee
(01:02:05) – Magnus’s go-to strength maintenance session
(01:04:12) – Why Magnus primarily climbs on commercial gym boulders
(01:05:47) – What Magnus would do if he wanted to climb his hardest again
(01:08:45) – Feeling healthier and happier at his current bodyweight
(01:11:04) – How much harder Magnus climbs without a shirt
(01:11:49) – Training on rock
(01:13:45) – Patron Question from Andrew: Biggest takeaways from training with Adam Ondra?
(01:16:39) – Watching tutorials on cameras and editing
(01:18:33) – How collaborations come about
(01:20:24) – Dream collaborations
(01:21:34) – What’s next for Magnus’s channel
(01:25:14) – Why Magnus doesn’t outsource his editing
(01:27:26) – How it works to get paid as a YouTuber, and investing in climbing gyms
(01:29:24) – What Magnus wishes he would have known earlier about YouTube, and wishing he hadn’t had respect for climbing grades
(01:33:17) – How top climbers almost have two personalities, and balancing humility with confidence
(01:35:18) – Learning to make fewer excuses, and other gifts from YouTube
(01:37:22) – Traveling, hiking, and exploring
(01:38:48) – What’s next
(01:39:30) – Where to find Magnus on the internet
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
EP 08: Kristin Yurdin — Building a Restaurant, Redpointing 5.14a at age 42, and Advice for Shorter Climbers
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream
EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do
EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon
EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken
EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)
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