In episode 286, Kestrel welcomes Kristine Kim, the Director of Impact at Doen, to the show. An LA-based women-run business, Doen offers collections inspired by a nostalgia for the coastal California of decades past. Doen recently unveiled their 2030 Roadmap, spearhead by Kristine, which provides an overarching blueprint for the business that will encapsulate both social and environmental elements of impact.
“We wanted to see our supply chain as a value chain — not just as a global supply chain that creates beautiful products, but also generates social and environmental value across that process as well, and to find opportunities for us to maximize that social and environmental value.” -Kristine
You’ve probably heard me say this on the show before, but the fashion and sustainability space has an issue with obsessing over binaries – I mean, it’s not the only space constantly questioning what’s right vs wrong or good vs bad.
These very simplified binary structures have been deeply embedded into our society – by way of concepts from white supremacy, colonialism, and the patriarchy. They also lead to a lot of pinning one perspective against another – which doesn’t help us move forward collectively, and instead tends to force us to choose one side over the other.
I’ve said it before and I’ll probably say it again, but there is a lot of gray area here — a lot of nuance that must be welcomed so we can actually get somewhere in our efforts to transform the fashion industry.
This week’s guest leads impact at Doen, and she is determined to accept the challenges that come with these *gray areas*.
As she said in a recent blog post:
“Like any industry, ours is often viewed—but does not actually function—within a black and white framework of right vs. wrong, sustainable vs. unsustainable. We know that labeling any brand as a “sustainable fashion brand” is greenwashing and misleading, but have we challenged ourselves beyond this? Every business on a sustainability journey will be confronted with a series of complex micro and macro decisions, often on a daily basis. The “right” answer for each organization looks different, and requires collective problem-solving and collaboration. Weighing all of the various trade-offs involved in any single action is the real impact work facing companies.”
This acknowledgement is key and I find it so refreshing coming straight from a Director Of Impact. She’s recently unveiled the company’s 2030 Roadmap, which represents their desire to do better in an imperfect industry.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“Kristine Kim On Defining Impact For Doen”, blog post Kristine wrote about the 2030 Roadmap
“The main intention that I wanted to communicate to the organization was — this type of value chain work, this type of sustainability work in fashion is very not straightforward, it’s nuanced, multiple shades of gray, it’s not a black and white binary, right or wrong, you’re sustainable or you’re unsustainable. And trying to get comfortable with that level of ambiguity and unfamiliarity is what I really wanted the teams to openly embrace.” -Kirstine (21:38)
Empower@Work, collaborative effort that Doen has joined
Doen’s 2030 Roadmap
Follow Doen on Instagram >
S06 Episode 262 | Roland Geyer on why we should we be focusing on LABOR, not MATERIALS in the quest to reduce fashion's environmental impact
S06 Episode 261 | Can fashion and degrowth coexist, and specifically — do high heels exist in a degrowth world?
S05 Episode 260 | What are you latching onto? A special edition recap — highlighting what we learned on season 5 to take us intentionally into season 6
S05 Episode 259 | Georgina Johnson's book "The Slow Grind" & the inevitability of degrowth in fashion
S05 Episode 258 | Aja Barber on how the *affordability* story is fueling a messed up narrative & why we need a culture shift
S05 Episode 257 | Farai Simoyi of The Narativ on the need for safe spaces where global designers can be seen, valued, and heard & educating the next generation of fashion's leaders
S05 Episode 256 | Shilla Kim-Parker of Thrilling on the digitization of secondhand & supporting small business
S05 Episode 255 | Gee's Bend Quilters: the original purveyors of sustainability & exploring the meaning of an equitable collaboration with Mary Margaret Pettway & Greg Lauren
S05 Episode 254 | Johnathan Hayden on using a brand as an experiment, questioning ownership over one's trash & how augmented reality could impact sustainability in fashion
S05 Episode 253 | Advocating for the U.S. to appoint a fashion czar, what are The Green Guides and more on the intersections of politics & fashion
S05 Episode 252 | Frankie Collective on reimagining supply chains for *upcycling* & embracing sustainability and streetwear through reworked design
S05 Episode 251 | CiscoSews on the freedom in nonbinary design & experimentations with upcycling
S05 Episode 250 | Natalie Shehata on why *diversity* is tokenistic and advocating for holistic inclusion
S05 Episode 249 | Isiah Magsino on fashion's current obsession with *genderless* and paying respect to queer & trans communities who have been stepping out of the binary forever
S05 Episode 248 | Ocean Rose on botanical dyeing, sustainability as a collection of idiosyncrasies & the art of slowing down
S05 Episode 247 | Christian Allaire of Vogue on the deep meaning behind Indigenous ribbon work & fashion as a means to reclaim culture
S05 Episode 246 | Nia Thomas on building an autobiographical brand & breaking up with plug and play approaches to doing fashion
S05 Episode 245 | Eshita Kabra-Davies of By Rotation on fashion rental, making the sharing economy personal & challenging the pressure of *newness*
S05 Episode 244 | Alyssa Beltempo on creativity over consumption & shifting the narrative away from placing *all* responsibility on the consumer
S05 Episode 243 | Julia Perez of Jae and Leona on separating self care from capitalism, launching a skincare line during the pandemic & advocating for skincare as liberation
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