In episode 274, Kestrel welcomes Michelle Zhu, the CEO & cofounder of Huue, to the show. In an effort to replace toxic chemical dyes in apparel, Huue are developing biosynthetic dyes — their initial focus is to provide an alternative to synthetic indigo.
“We are creating a biosynthetic solution that is a one-to-one drop-in replacement into the textile supply chain. We’re creating these bio-identicals that can minimize the footprint of production of these dyes and pigments, but without disrupting the supply chain process that is required to make the authentic look and feel of denim that everybody knows and loves.”
-Michelle Zhu
Are you familiar with biosynthetics? If so, do you understand what they are or how they operate? So often terms like this get thrown around in the *sustainability* space, without a lot of context or definitions. They are assumed to fall into the good box or the bad box, when yet again – there is a lot more information needed to understand the bigger picture.
So, here’s the super basics – biosynthetics are made of renewable materials, instead of being petroleum based. We often hear about them from a fiber stance, so fabrics made up of biopolymers from corn or sugar or other ingredients. But on this week’s show, we’re diving into more on how biosynthetics are being used for textile dyeing.
Today, the majority of our clothes are colored with synthetic dyes. If we look back, the first synthetic dye was accidentally discovered in the 1850s when an 18-year old chemist was searching for a treatment for malaria. And since then, they’ve gradually taken over due to their speed and efficacy.
But take indigo – the color that we align with denim. Today, every kilogram of synthetic indigo produced uses 75x the amount of petroleum. And it involves the use of dangerous chemicals like benzene, formaldehyde, and sodamide.
This week’s guest cofounded a company that’s leveraging biosynthetics to address the extreme toxicity across the textile dye industry. They’ve started with indigo blue, and are building one-to-one solutions that can be inserted directly into the current manufacturing infrastructure.
Quotes & links from the conversation:
“This Melinda Gates-backed biotech startup is growing bacteria that make sustainable dye for denim”, article in Fast Company
"How These Founders Are Detoxifying the Denim Industry--and Saving the Planet", article in Inc.
"Using synthetic biology platforms to clean up indigo dye-making", article in Axios
"Best Inventions of 2021 - Huue: Blue Jeans Go Green", article in TIME
Huue’s Website >
Follow Huue on Instagram >
S01 Episode 44 | ANDREW MORGAN + THE TRUE COST
S01 Episode 43 | SOKO, VIRTUAL SUPPLY CHAINS + CONNECTIVE TECHNOLOGY
S01 Episode 42 | SUSTAINABILITY IN THE FASHION CURRICULUM
S01 Episode 41 | HODA KATEBI + FASHION ACTIVISM
S01 Episode 40 | MARCI ZAROFF + FARM TO CLOSET
S01 Episode 39 | YOUTUBE, COMPASSION FASHION + INFLUENCE
S01 Episode 38 | EXPEDITION 196, PEACE + SUSTAINABILITY VIA TRAVEL
S01 Episode 37 | PUSHING THE SUSTAINABLE FASHION CONVERSATION
S01 Episode 36 | SPIRIT OF 608, TECH + THE FUTURE OF FASHION
S01 Episode 35 | FASHIONKIND, LUXURY + SUSTAINABILITY
S01 Episode 34 | STELA 9 + CULTURAL PRESERVATION
S01 Episode 33 | REDRESS + WASTE LESS
S01 Episode 32 | CHRISTY DAWN + MAKING DEADSTOCK LOVELY
S01 Episode 31 | OLDERBROTHER, UNIVERSAL GARMENTS + THE PROCESS
S01 Episode 30 | SAMATA + RED CARPET GREEN DRESS
S01 Episode 29 | TRADLANDS + QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
S01 Episode 28 | PIÑATEX + PINEAPPLES AS A LEATHER ALTERNATIVE
S01 Episode 27 | STORIES, CRAFT + VALUES
S01 Episode 26 | KNITTING IS COOL AGAIN
S01 Episode 25 | MINDFULNESS FOR ENTREPRENEURS
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