Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever
(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.
(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing
(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects
(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup
(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies
(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?
(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi
(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style
(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?
(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?
(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’
(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger
(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?
(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c
(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?
(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes
(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’
(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta
(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’
(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’
(01:18:28) – Speed training
(01:20:02) – Recovery
(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it
(01:25:48) – Greedy
(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back
(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by
(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective
EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)
EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets
BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief
EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits
EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower
EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity
EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet
EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index
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