Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever
(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.
(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing
(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects
(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup
(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies
(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?
(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi
(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style
(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’
(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?
(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?
(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’
(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger
(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?
(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c
(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?
(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes
(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’
(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta
(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’
(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’
(01:18:28) – Speed training
(01:20:02) – Recovery
(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it
(01:25:48) – Greedy
(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back
(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by
(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film!
Announcing Merch!
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement
EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating
EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story
EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style
EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Backpacking Light Podcast
Live Wild with Remi Warren
Outside Podcast