Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, the skills needed to climb cutting-edge cracks, why he is still working on improving at ring locks, the futuristic Crucifix Project, his most fun/rewarding/miserable/traumatic trips with Tom Randall, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/pete-whittaker
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Intro/Ads
0:05:34 – Pete’s breakfast and voice
0:06:29 – Pete and Tom’s current mission in Moab, and what makes that area so unique
0:10:02 – Goals on trips, and working on ring locks as a weakness
0:12:22 – How Pete and Tom ring lock differently
0:14:57 – Pete’s book on crack climbing techniques
0:15:56 – Trying Mason Earl’s route Stranger Than Fiction
0:20:14 – Breakdown and progress on Stranger Than Fiction
0:21:58 – Pete’s first visit to the Profile Wall in Norway to try Recovery Drink, and working his way through the established free routes
0:27:54 – The style of climbing on the Profile Wall, and the skills needed to climb hard there
0:30:08 – Placing 17 pieces of gear on the 100m Crown Royale 9a
0:32:35 – Breakdown of Crown Royale 9a, and running it out on the send
0:38:13 – Pete’s process on Crown, and projecting the top half as its own pitch
0:40:42 – How Pete and Tom decide which projects to try together vs. individually
0:43:19 – The most FUN trip with Tom (Century Crack trip)
0:45:20 – The most MISERABLE trip with Tom (Bridge Boys)
0:46:21 – The most TRAUMATIZING trip with Tom (Yosemite)
0:49:09 – The most REWARDING trips with Tom (exploring the White Rim)
0:50:27 – The Crucifix project
0:53:26 – How Pete trained for Crown Royale 9a
0:57:06 – Embracing the suck, why Pete is good at resting in stressful positions, and training stamina as a kid
1:00:17 – Pete’s early climbing, venturing into more dangerous routes as a teenager, and doing the first ascent of an E9 at age 17 with his mom on belay
1:06:12 – Why Pete loves offwidthing, and other styles of climbing that involve lots of suffering
1:10:42 – How geeky is Pete about training?
1:13:10 – Adding structure, and training with Lattice for Crown Royale
1:14:51 – Shoulder conditioning for Crown, and what exercises he plans to continue doing
1:17:51 – Keeping tabs on the world’s hardest trad routes, and Pete’s thoughts on trying Tribe
1:20:09 – How Pete picks objectives and goals, and riding the waves
1:23:07 – Pete’s recent trip to Yosemite with Mari
1:25:37 – Using Darth Grader to suggest the grade of 9a for Crown Royale
1:34:33 – How Pete’s experience with Crown Royale compared to Recovery Drink
1:37:33 – Unclimbed lines on the Profile Wall, and where the name “Crown Royale” came from
1:39:26 – Check out the Patron-only EXTRA with the Wide Boyz!
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
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