Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall
Nuggets:
3:35 – The cellar
6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?
11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength
14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience
18:19 – What Tom did to get strong
23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders
28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits
37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training
45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?
49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles
54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?
59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?
1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?
1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?
1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?
1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?
1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work
1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show
1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel
1:16:02 – Gratitude
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)
EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)
A Call from Ethan
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)
EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing
Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)
EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief
EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)
EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
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