The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general.
This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other better, have more tools to use with each other in sticky situations, and to–more than anything–help us all have an amazing and safe time climbing outside with each other.
Here’s what we talked about:
Communication
a. Who’s climbing when
b. For how long
c. Permission to join bouldering crew
d. Brush holds
e. Beta sharing desires
f. Encouragement desires
Taking up space
a. Yard sale
b. Loud conversations
c. Taking long time to get ready when there’s a queue
d. Talking to belayers
Impact on others
a. Smoking
b. Music
c. Screaming performatively on climbs
d. Wobbling
e. Yelling at ppl for waiting for a route you’re currently on
f. Dogs
I hope this conversation sparks conversations of your own with your climber friends!
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)
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