Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
Use the link above to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle
Nuggets:
0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa
0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL
0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like
0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip
0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions
0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting
0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal
0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?
0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday
0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up
0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition
0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering
0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet
0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals
0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training
0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)
0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet
0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles
1:00:45 – Jazz
1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility
1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?
1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing
1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training
1:13:58 – Micro edge training
1:15:39 – Contact strength training
1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods
1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?
1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries
1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)
1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?
1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco
1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?
1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)
1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?
1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?
1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from
1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work
1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?
1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places
1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?
1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships
1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics
1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process
1:53:10 – Be present
1:54:39 – Wrap up
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)
EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective
EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)
EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets
BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief
EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits
EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower
EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity
EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet
EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Backpacking Light Podcast
Cal’s Week in Review
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast