Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
Use the link above to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle
Nuggets:
0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa
0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL
0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like
0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip
0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions
0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting
0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal
0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?
0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday
0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up
0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition
0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering
0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet
0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals
0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training
0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)
0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet
0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles
1:00:45 – Jazz
1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility
1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?
1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing
1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training
1:13:58 – Micro edge training
1:15:39 – Contact strength training
1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods
1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?
1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries
1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)
1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?
1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco
1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?
1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)
1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?
1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?
1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from
1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work
1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?
1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places
1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?
1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships
1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics
1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process
1:53:10 – Be present
1:54:39 – Wrap up
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
Visualize Meditations
The Meaningful Life with Andrew G. Marshall
Heal, Survive & Thrive!
BPLUS بیپلاس پادکست فارسی خلاصه کتاب
جافکری | Jafekri