It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn
Nuggets:
0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder
0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors
0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:26:21 – The boys' skin
0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip
0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home
0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes
0:42:56 – Getting hooked
0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast
0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects
0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte
0:58:41 – Brother dynamics
1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports
1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?
1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s
1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei
1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line
1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations
1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength
1:26:16 – Board gods
1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades
1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard
1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing
1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists
1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?
1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses
1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses
1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses
1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses
1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs
1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs
1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam
1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs
1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs
2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17
2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop
2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012
2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse
2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)
2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations
2:19:24 – Three more goals each
2:24:07 – Airstar
2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands
2:32:16 – These boys are the future
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index
EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt
EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration
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