It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn
Nuggets:
0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder
0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors
0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:26:21 – The boys' skin
0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip
0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home
0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes
0:42:56 – Getting hooked
0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast
0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects
0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte
0:58:41 – Brother dynamics
1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports
1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?
1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s
1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei
1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line
1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations
1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength
1:26:16 – Board gods
1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades
1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard
1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing
1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists
1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?
1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses
1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses
1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses
1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses
1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs
1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs
1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam
1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs
1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs
2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17
2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop
2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012
2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse
2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)
2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations
2:19:24 – Three more goals each
2:24:07 – Airstar
2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands
2:32:16 – These boys are the future
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
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