Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger
Nuggets:
0:06:01 – Camping iterations
0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction
0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story
0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking
0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends
0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy
0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics
0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment
0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing
0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff
0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance
0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel
0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work
0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused
1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis
1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope
1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset
1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel
1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling
1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco
1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year
1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength
1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule
1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity
1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice
1:38:27 – The eyeball story
1:58:16 – Spain
2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace
2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love
2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business
2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)
2:19:56 – How to find a good PT
2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing
2:29:35 – Wrap up
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
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