Steve House began venturing into the high mountains as a teenager, and has since built a career on climbing, guiding and coaching. By the time he published his book Beyond the Mountain in 2009, Reinhold Messner said House was “at the top of mountaineering.”
House’s life in climbing has taken him all over the world. His most famous ascent may be the Central Pillar of Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face, a climb he completed with Vince Anderson. But he has compiled an impressive list of first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, the Alps and the Karakoram. Steve has been a professional mountain guide since 1992, and in 1999 he became the ninth American to achieve IFMGA certification.
But these days House lives in a small Austrian mountain town with his wife and two kids. In the mornings he spends time getting outside, while the later part of the day is dedicated to working with his company Uphill Athlete. He retired from professional climbing in 2020.
In this episode, we revisit passages from Steve’s book Beyond the Mountain, discuss fatherhood, and finding his way in his new home in Austria. We learn about the climb that drove him to focus more on training and preparation, and eventually led him to start his company, Uphill Athlete. And, we learn more about how he thinks about climbing and what it is to be human—to focus on the act of becoming rather than being.
Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from Osprey.
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Host: Abbey Collins
Guest: Steve House
Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
The Self Motivator: Chantel Astorga
Balancing Risk and Reward: Mike Gardner
From Pebbles to the Himalaya: Pete Takeda
The Novelty Seeker: Madaleine Sorkin
Not in Ohio Anymore: Anna Pfaff
Alpinist Aloud: “To Look the Bear in the Eye”
Alpinist Aloud: "Less Rich Without You"
Alpinist Aloud: “Melting Giants”
Fire and Ice: Scott Coldiron
A Visit with Mark Twight
Alpinist Aloud: “Life Compass” by Brette Harrington
"All that Glitters": Margo Talbot
Alpinist Aloud: “The Raven at the Door” by David Stevenson
Alpinist Aloud: “The Force of the Soul,” by James Edward Mills
The Lifestyler: Chris Weidner
Climber, Transcending: Kai Lightner
Rethinking Mountaineering Histories: Amrita Dhar
From the Gunks to Desert Towers: Jeff Achey
Perspective: Robbi Mecus
Inner Ranges: Geoff Powter
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