Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehally
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:07:43) – Staying in a gite in Fontainebleau
(00:09:45) – Shauna Coxsey’s husband
(00:11:07) – A background on Ned’s climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield
(00:16:51) – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s
(00:21:01) – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve
(00:22:57) – Ned’s philosophy for improving at climbing, being well-rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly
(00:28:20) – Ned’s dimensions, “If that’s how you’re built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber
(00:32:08) – The leap in Ned’s climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)
(00:35:29) – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?
(00:39:40) – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing
(00:45:25) – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions
(00:47:35) – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training
(00:52:05) – An annual overview of Ned’s finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals
(00:56:11) – How much variety should you have in your finger training?
(00:59:24) – Training one grip type per session
(01:02:12) – The genetic component of finger strength
(01:05:54) – How Ned structures a week of finger training
(01:10:19) – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions
(01:14:25) – Ned’s thoughts on only training half crimp
(01:16:33) – The balance of Ned’s finger training and outdoor climbing
(01:20:19) – Ned’s home wall, and making his own wooden holds
(01:22:19) – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?
(01:24:21) – Ned’s thinking on using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders
(01:26:11) – Structuring a board session (bouldering)
(01:28:28) – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character
(01:32:09) – Targeting move types in a sessions
(01:32:55) – Bouldering with ankle weights
(01:39:42) – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process
(01:42:38) – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries
(01:48:26) – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?
(01:54:01) – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard
(01:55:55) – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?
(01:57:09) – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?
(02:00:19) – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?
(02:02:29) – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation
(02:03:59) – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?
(02:05:13) – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?
(02:06:12) – Ned’s stretching routine
(02:10:14) – Science podcasts
(02:11:19) – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?
(02:12:29) – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade
(02:17:12) – Flashing ‘Trust Issues’ V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset
(02:20:40) – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!
(02:23:58) – What's next for Beastmaker
(02:25:19) – Where to buy the book (links in show notes)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
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