Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.
Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returns
Nuggets:
0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds
0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects
0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you
0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business
0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing
0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card
0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes
0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action
0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt
0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan
0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself
0:50:24 – Bad days happen
0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip
0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured
1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention
1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan
1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses
1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing
1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong
1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap
1:51:02 – Wrap up
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)
EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective
EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)
EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets
BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief
EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits
EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower
EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity
EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet
EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
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