Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.
Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returns
Nuggets:
0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds
0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects
0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you
0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business
0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing
0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card
0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes
0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action
0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt
0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan
0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself
0:50:24 – Bad days happen
0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip
0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured
1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention
1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan
1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses
1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing
1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong
1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap
1:51:02 – Wrap up
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
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