Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentially a professional climber on the side. We talked about paraclimbing competitions, being diagnosed with Ataxia, how we perceive wheelchairs, empathy in coaching, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lea-volpe
Nuggets:
0:07:04 – Getting over covid
0:08:06 – A normal weekday in Lea’s life
0:11:32 – How Lea recharges her mental batteries
0:14:14 – Balancing an intellectual and sedentary job with the physical activity of climbing
0:16:54 – How most climbers feel guilty for taking downtime
0:18:59 – Lea’s energy reserves, and learning to budget her energy
0:21:28 – An introduction to paraclimbing, Lea’s disability of Ataxia, and strategies she uses to climb around a coordination and balance impairment
0:26:32 – Why Lea uses a wheelchair day-to-day, and climbing with her disability
0:31:33 – Experiencing imposter syndrome as a strong para athlete
0:34:04 – How climbing levels the playing field, and how many of us start at V0
0:36:58 – Failure is part of climbing
0:39:06 – Lea’s life as a kid and teenager, and getting diagnosed with Ataxia and Ehlers Danlos Syndrome in her early 20s
0:44:21 – How Lea discovered climbing
0:46:10 – How we perceive people in wheelchairs, and feeling self-conscious at the climbing wall
0:53:00 – What we can learn from Lea in regards to how we think about disability
0:58:01 – The paraclimbing competition format, and some of the different athlete categories
1:02:04 – Climbing to be in the paraolympics, and classification systems
1:07:03 – How athletes get assessed to determine their classification
1:17:35 – How route setters influence competition outcomes, and setting guidelines in paraclimbing competitions
1:20:47 – Working with a coach vs. being self-coached
1:24:51 – Keeping training sustainable
1:28:49 – What a “bad day” looks like for Lea
1:35:48 – How Lea got into coaching
1:42:24 – What Lea hopes to pass on to the kids she coaches, and the role of coach/teacher
1:48:10 – Having the questions vs. asking questions, and qualities that make a good coach
1:51:40 – Empathy in coaching, and how climbing brings out our deepest and darkest fears
1:56:12 – Inspiration porn and how it can reduce people down to a tool, and how Lea wants to use her platform
2:02:42 – The barriers involved in climbing outdoors
2:13:22 – What’s next for Lea
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
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