Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matty-hong
Nuggets:
0:05:51 – How Matty listens to podcasts
0:08:53 – Growing up in a climbing family, and his connection with his parents
0:13:10 – What his parents have instilled in him as a climber, and keeping the ego in check
0:15:23 – Early milestones in Matty’s climbing
0:18:41 – Loving all of the challenges and variety to be found in climbing
0:20:41 – Second-guessing the path, being grateful for climbing, and having a beginner’s mindset with photography and filmmaking
0:24:43 – Trying ‘Flex Luthor’ for a year, and the history of the route
0:30:26 – Meeting Matty up at the Fortress, and his process on ‘Flex Luthor’
0:40:45 – Patron question from Landolini: How likely is it that Tommy climbed 9b (5.15b)?
0:48:51 – Matty’s thoughts on grading
0:51:55 – Matty’s most memorable climbing achievements
0:53:53 – Climbing waterfalls in Japan with Yuji Hirayama
1:01:31 – Thoughts on adventure climbing, and his trip to India
1:06:19 – Matty’s campus board and home wall
1:09:29 – How Matty trained for ‘Flex Luthor’ on his home wall, and his relaxed approach to training
1:19:46 – Patron question from Adriel: Any tips for using bouldering as training for sport climbing? (And more about his training for Flex)
1:24:02 – Why Matty thinks sport climbing in a gym (vs. bouldering) is a waste of time
1:25:54 – Sport climbing is a strategy-based puzzle
1:28:37 – Goals and challenges
1:31:09 – Patron question from Ben: Do you have any bouldering or trad goals?
1:35:08 – Patron question from One_rocky_boi: How does Matty balance photography and filmmaking with climbing?
1:43:14 – The camera as a gift
1:45:03 – Matty’s proudest photos, and the challenges in filmmaking
1:49:39 – What’s next?
1:54:11 – Nocturne Op 62 No 1 in B (Performed by Matty Hong)
EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)
Darek Krol Memorial Clip
EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol
Merry Christmas!
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
T-Shirt Giveaway!
EP 46: Chris Kalous — Untold Stories, the Mythical Grade of A6+, and the Gift of Podcasting
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser)
EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’
EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) — The Guy Behind The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — ‘Nu World’ and the ‘Event Horizon’ Project (Teaser)
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)
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