Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!
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Watch the Video Interview:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:28) – Topics covered
(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio
(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics
(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries
(00:16:21) – Stress shielding
(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries
(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries
(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos
(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position
(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers
(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception
(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises
(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis
(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis
(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age
(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important
(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints
(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?
(01:09:18) – Playing the long game
(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli
(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises
(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow
(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow
(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions
(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries
(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)
(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues
(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis
(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured
(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index
EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt
EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
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