James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learning how to train, eGrader and quantifying E grades, his decision to suggest E12 for his new route ‘Bon Voyage’, why he was afraid of becoming a dad, what kids taught him, and much more! This was one of my all-time favorite interviews.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/james-pearson
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:35) – Getting settled
(00:03:13) – Why I feel like I know James
(00:05:33) – Introducing the Redemption Story
(00:08:10) – Internet backlash
(00:10:05) – Coming full circle
(00:13:33) – Why it felt important to grade ‘Bon Voyage’
(00:17:10) – The full story
(00:28:47) – Compassion for himself
(00:30:53) – Moving to Innsbruck to work on his sport climbing
(00:36:05) – Thinking his pro climbing life was over, meeting Caroline, and their trip to Turkey
(00:41:18) – Learning how to train
(00:46:33) – 7b+ to 8c+ in 6 months
(00:52:32) – Fun and performance
(00:53:23) – E grades
(00:56:16) – Trying to flash E10 in Pembrook, and falling in love with climbing again
(00:59:43) – Returning to ‘Rhapsody’
(01:02:10) – Flashing V13 (8B), and his struggle with projecting pressure
(01:08:50) – Climbing V15, craving the next level, and living the pro climber dream with Caro
(01:17:10) – Why he left the UK, and why it felt important to return to ‘Rhapsody’
(01:24:53) – Searching for his hardest trad route
(01:25:59) – Making the Redemption film
(01:29:21) – eGrader, and understanding E12 and beyond
(01:35:47) – Climbing a 9a right after ‘Bon Voyage’
(01:37:15) – Talking to Hazel Findlay, and PTSD
(01:38:58) – Presenting E12 again 15 years later
(01:45:04) – Backlash about grades, and Anna Hazelnutt’s thoughts about Walk of Life
(01:49:02) – Breaking down E12 and ‘Bon Voyage’
(02:00:53) – Finding ‘Bon Voyage’
(02:08:08) – How dangerous is ‘Bon Voyage’?
(02:20:23) – Being more scientific about grades
(02:24:54) – Why give ‘Bon Voyage’ an E grade?
(02:38:44) – Becoming a dad
(02:47:47) – What kids taught him
(02:53:57) – Rules for climbing with kids, and sending without expectations
(02:58:17) – Tips for climbers with kids
(03:03:36) – James’ advice for his younger self
(03:11:15) – Climbing matters
(03:16:45) – Accepting some selfishness, and Caro’s mom
(03:23:36) – Training with Ollie Torr for ‘Bon Voyage’, and Caro’s journey back to hard climbing after pregnancy
EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)
EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)
EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training
BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk
EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)
EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive
EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position” (Teaser)
EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers
EP 61: Chelsea Murn — How to Rewire Your Brain, Take Courageous Leaps, and Manifest Your Dream Life
Follow-Up: Ben Herrington — A Guide to Developing New Boulders (Teaser)
EP 60: Leif Gasch — Becoming a Trainer, Mini-Goals, and Tackling Listener Questions
EP 59: My Eating Disorder — Starving Myself to Climb Harder, and Lessons Learned
EP 58: Carlos Tkacz — Lessons from Teaching, a Free Training Book, and Self-Publishing Sci-Fi
Follow-Up: Emily Harrington — Sending 'Golden Gate', Shoe Tricks, and Pancakes (Teaser)
EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions
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