The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta.
In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez:
authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019.
They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.
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And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
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If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
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BOARD MEETINGS | The Downgrading of Bibliographie from 15d to 15c
BOARD MEETINGS | Terrible Climbing Advice That’s Actually Great
Cody Kaemmerlen | Climb United
The American Climbing Project | Episode 2: The Great Equalizer (Special Preview)
Blake Cason, MS | Wellness and Habits for Climbing Performance
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | New River Gorge Sport Climbing with Jeremy Rush
MC Pete Woods | World Cup Commentating
When to Walk Away | Strategic Quitting
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Red River Gorge Sport Climbing
Climb Strong and Training Beta, LIVE at ICF 25 | Where to Start Training
Afterword, Acknowledgements, and a Bonus Chat with Brendan Leonard
Goals Not Met | Freedom and Transworld Depravity, with Lee Smith
Climb Better Faster | The Often Missing Piece, with Mario Stanley
Selective Learning | The Short-Sighted Approach, with Paul Corsaro
No Kings, No Way, with Brittany Hoffman
The Send is a Necessary Piece of the Process, with Lauren Abernathy and Nate Drolet
Success or Mastery?, with Ryley Rush
3 Reasons Why Soft Grades Matter, with Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard
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