Common Mistakes For Endurance Training: Part 2 With Tom Randall

Part 2 of the "Endurance Mistakes" of Climbing Training! 

Endurance training is a foundational element of performance preparation or training for almost every athlete, no matter what their discipline. Boulderers, sport climbers and trad climbers should all be completing phases of endurance training during their year. What is also common across these disciplines, is a consistent set of mistakes that climbers typically make when completing this type of training. 

In part two of this podcast, Tom Randall talks about the "Style" aspect of endurance work which encompasses both grip types and terrain angle. Both of these factors in your endurance training will affect the outcomes in technical, psychological and physical performance or adaptation. 

Main grip types you want to consider:

Micro edges (less than 10mm)
Mid-sized edge (20-30mm)
Pinches 
Slopers, big open holds
Pockets

Main terrain angles to train on:

Slab
Vertical
Steep up to 30 degrees
Steep 30-60 degrees
Roof

Technical outcomes:

1. Lack of skill or technique in using particular grip types. Finger, hand and wrist positioning as well as body position especially with things like slopers etc. 
2. Lack of movement efficiency appropriate to the terrain angle. Movement on a slab is not the same as a 45 degree wall! 
3. Low skill set in hold-specific or angle-specific rests. 
4. Under developed technique in pacing for particular terrain angles. 

Psychological outcomes:

1. Not enough familiarity or exposure to specific holds or angles. Impacts confidence, anxiety levels and state management. 
2. Likelihood of lower onsight ability that fitness or technical ability should dictate. 
3. Problem solving skills for terrain type underdeveloped. Will affect onsight and redpoint grade. 

Physical:

1. Terrain-specific mobility/flexibility and also finger-hand-wrist-forearm ROM appropriate to grip type. 
2. Focusing volume of training on the wrong terrain type will under-develop the muscle groups specific (and limiting) to the terrain you do want to perform on. 

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