Ep 20: Erin McNeice - Finding Sudden Success on the Senior Circuit

Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we’ll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we’ll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickname came from.

Guest links:

Instagram

Reference links:

Keqiao Boulder Finals Difficult Paddle

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro/Rest after Shanghai OQS

2:52 - Starting climbing + skateboarding

9;12 - Her dad’s gymnastics/climbing background

11:29 - Jumping without bending your knees

13:26 - Climbing preferences, strengths, weaknesses

15:53 - Traveling for climbing experience

17:36 - Team GB training process

21:48 - Finding incredible form this season

26:25 - Taking on a less serious mindset

34:06 - Training goal setting

35:41 - Difficulty maintaining friendships through training

39:45 - Competing against your idols

42:43 - GB Climbing Funding

44:59 - Need for sponsorship

46:33 - Handling the quick OQS -> Olympics turnaround time

49:28 - Future climbing goals

50:55 - Planetology interests

53:20 - Living in Malaysia

56:11 - Erin McBeast origin story

57:29 - ISO activities

59:28 - Discord Q: Did you ever had doubts in wanting to become a pro climber?

1:02:30 - Discord Q: Training at home vs abroad

1:03:59 - Discord Q: Do you do any other sports? Is cross-training beneficial?

1:06:03 - Where to find Erin