It took me no time at all to fall in love with Los Angeles -- just a few intakes of the balmy air upon emerging from the plane shortly after midnight. Until then, I didn't believe in love at first sight. Now, almost thirty years later, I know better. Never mind the wonderful climate and suspiciously gorgeous Hollywood wannabes. This huge and sprawling metropolis stubbornly refuses to follow the rules of success established by its older rivals, and instead of the storied beauty of Paris or Rome, it offers an exotic and unsettling, but ultimately intoxicating mixture of good, strange, and ugly...
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