The Unbearable Lightness of Being Hungry
Arts:Food
“It was probably the singular worst experience of my life, because Noodle Bar will kick your ass.” Sure, Su Wong Ruiz's first go at working for David Chang's Momofuku restaurant empire wasn't exactly a success. (“My ass was completely flattened by that experience,” she says.) But over time, she became part of the acclaimed, three-hat launch team for his Momofuku Seiobo restaurant in Sydney (Chang claimed this was his first venue "where the front of house is equal to, if not better than, the kitchen team’). Then Su went on to work for Momofuku's Ma Peche (where she meant future Seiobo chef, Paul Carmichael) and Momofuku Ko, which has been called Chang's most ambitious restaurant.
“Dave is a very particular type of coach and tormentor – he’s really good at it,” jokes Su. So it was fascinating to hear her talk about the unexpected challenges and standards set by the busy chef; as well as her strong working relationships with Ben Greeno (Seiobo's first head chef) and Sean Gray at Momofuku Ko. I also enjoyed hearing how ultra-creative Sean's past dishes are – like the cold fried chicken, for instance. Plus, Su's insights on working front of house – and dealing with trolls – are really fascinating.
She also shares her favourite places to eat and drink in Sydney and New York.
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