For 1500 years, the fortress town of Erzurum has stood like a breakwater, holding back wave after wave of armies from the East. Today, young Turks skilled in the combat sport of wrestling pay homage to history in the town's civic center, where battles of the past become a celebration of life. For more information on the Rick Steves' Europe TV series — including episode descriptions, scripts, participating stations, travel information on destinations and more — visit www.ricksteves.com.
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