Episode 14: Hangboarding Part 2, ”The fun way to hang on the edge of a box”, programming, protocols, and how to get it done.
Is it better to use a smaller edge or more weight? How do you know when it's time to progress your hangboard session? If these questions have ever kept you up at night - or even got you into a useless conversation at the crag, this episode is what you're looking for. We're digging into the protocols you can use to practically build stronger fingers.
And if you're interested in implementing some of these protocols, these are exactly the kinds of training tools I use in my self-guided training plans.
The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan!
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!
The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.
RESOURCES/LINKS FOR THIS EPISODE:
Velocity Pulls Video: https://youtu.be/TJ0XGJNQdG8
Blog post - Victoria Sending her first 5.12: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/how-victoria-sent-her-first-5-12/
Force velocity curve graph: https://sportscienceinsider.com/force-velocity-curve/
Form for submitting questions to the podcast: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYWU3jBcHXHXeJLKSCxEQENYvvTBjgLf7spdSryapL5OOPvA/viewform
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