TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods

 

About Tom Randall

Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible. 

What We Talked About

• His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknesses
• How he works with clients
• Training for crack climbing
• Pinky crack drills
• Free soloing 3,000 routes
• Case study of bouldering client

Sample Assessment of One of Tom's Clients

Intro to "Jack Daniels"

 

Jack is a 34 year old climber who has always been told by his friends that he has good finger strength, but never quite seems to transfer it to his projects. He either gets pumped too quickly on sport routes that feel within his redpoint ability and falls off when the moves are continuously strenuous, or on long style boulder problems he hits "The power-out wall" at about 60 seconds. He'd like to understand what factors are limiting his physical performance.

 

--> Assessment feedback for Jack Daniels

Related Links

• Lattice Training: www.latticetraining.co.uk
• Tom Randall on Facebook
• His coaching partner, Ollie
• Tom Randall on Instagram

Training Programs for You

• Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
• Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

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• Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
• Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Thanks for listening!