008: Lakpa Rita Sherpa| the highest highs

NOTE| This episode is longer than usual--> ‘Top of The Game (in) Overtime’. These are released occasionally and are longer-form conversations than our usual ~15 min run times. 

LAKPA'S BIO

Lakpa Rita Sherpa is a truly singular human being and is one of the most prolific and accomplished mountain climbers in the world and has achieved remarkable feats that place him at the very top of the game, in his case, the top of the world. He has summited Mount Everest (29,035 ft) 17 times across 25 expeditions guiding a record 253 climbers to the peak of the highest point on earth. If that is not enough, Lakpa became the first sherpa and Nepali to ever climb the “Seven Summits,” the tallest mountain on every continent. Before there was a term for what he does, Extreme Sports, he was doing it to make a living and for the love of the majesty of the tallest mountain range in the world. 

He is as selfless as he is accomplished and has put his life at risk multiple times rescuing stranded Everest climbers. He has been profiled in many outlets across the media including National Geographic Magazine and was named an Adventurer of the Year by Outside Magazine in 2013. 

Lakpa, the oldest of 8 siblings, became a sherpa as a teenager to provide for his family after his dad suffered an accident in the Himalayas which claimed some of his toes and fingers. Lakpa’s first mountaineering experience was on Mount Everest and on that fateful day, an avalanche just below Camp 3 nearly killed him. Thinking he would never climb again after his first try, he persevered. The rest of the story is the stuff of legend. Lakpa’s success has taught him lessons in working hard, overcoming challenges, having patience, channeling focus, managing risk, living with stress and achieving the impossible. Lakpa’s early year climbs meant he was one of a few people at Everest, is saddened and concerned with the level of incompetence and massive crowds seen today. We discuss the tug of war between having a vibrant mountain economy and the jobs it creates in Nepal with degrading alpine ecosystems and tragedies that befall unprepared visitors, accidents and death.  

He spent 30 years guiding expeditions at Alpine Ascents and today owns and runs Khangri Experience with his brother Kami.  Entrepreneurship is his latest challenge to conquer. Overachievement runs in the family, his brother Kami has summited Everest a record 28 times. This conversation is one of the most fascinating talks I have ever had.

“Hiked four hours to school, each way”

“My first ever climb as a Sherpa was on Everest…triggered an avalanche near Camp Three, luckily I survived”

EPISODE OUTLINE

(00:00) - Introduction

(00:38) - Bio

(01:13) - Incredible early years in the Himalayas; 4-hour hike to school 

(03:33) - Becoming a Sherpa; making a living

(04:33) - First ever attempt at Mt Everest; almost killed by avalanche at 24,000ft

(08:00) - Challenges, grit, perseverance 

(09:00) - Summiting Everest 17 times and 7 world summits - first Nepalese to do it

(09:46) - Becoming the best; learning, expeditions and extreme challenges

(12:42) - Tourism economy and jobs; good and bad

(13:30) - Training, training, training

(14:21) - Then and now; conquering mountains or making a living

(16:23) - The commercial boom, ecosystem degradation, challenge

(17:00) - Quite a few don't know how to use a crampon; scary and dumb

(18:05) - Big problems with inexperience and outsized risk; crowds

(18:45) - Good side and bad side of the Everest tourism economy 

(19:44) - Don't start at the tallest mountain on earth; step by step

(20:45) - Smart economic development saves lives and habitats

(21:49) - Avoiding deaths and a government role controlling ascents

(22:56) - Mentality, philosophy, mindset; start with experience 

(26:22) - Becoming an entrepreneur; life choices, owning destiny

(29:02) - Outro

LAKPA'S RELATED LINKS

Climbed Everest 17 times — working for others. Now he’s starting a new adventure

Film - “Sherpa: Trouble on Everest”

Adventurer of The Year: Outside Magazine

2019 National Geographic and Rolex Perpetual Planet Everest Expedition

Lakpa’s company: Khangri Experience

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