Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness.
*Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprez
Nuggets:
6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?
9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure
12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps
17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania
22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck
29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion
32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina
36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill
40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project
44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction
46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman
47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body
52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much
53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else
55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening
59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure?
1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve
1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France
1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with
1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure
1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need
1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name
1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?
1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements
1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up? How do you physically prepare for such an experience?
1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space
1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety
1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
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