Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out AG1!
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
Check out Rumpl!
rumpl.com/nugget
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
Check out Rocky Talkie!
RockyTalkie.com/Nugget
Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wright
Nuggets:
0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing
0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting
0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes
0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes
0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber
0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things
0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country
0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation
0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping
0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her
0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from
0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity
0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have
1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her
1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them
1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music
1:10:57 – Mom
1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?
1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting
1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible
1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style
1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs
1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style
1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene
1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis
1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing
1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery
1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes
1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship
1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City
2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year
2:06:38 – Loving most of New York
2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady
2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people
2:17:07 – Skateboarding
2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb
2:24:47 – Practice makes better
2:29:38 – Believe and validate
2:32:58 – The clubhouse
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal
EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent
EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)
EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing
Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)
EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
Visualize Meditations
The Meaningful Life with Andrew G. Marshall
Heal, Survive & Thrive!
BPLUS بیپلاس پادکست فارسی خلاصه کتاب
The Jordan Harbinger Show