Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/magnus-midtbo
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:06:39) – Burning out on competitions, and starting his career as a YouTuber
(00:10:45) – Who is Magnus’s audience?
(00:13:10) – Editing and perfectionism
(00:15:59) – The hard work behind success
(00:18:05) – Pacing and music, and making the films personal
(00:21:09) – Being an interovert as a YouTuber
(00:23:35) – Why YouTube Channels die out
(00:26:16) – Making other types of videos outside of climbing, and not being afraid of trying new things
(00:28:05) – Parallels between YouTube and climbing, and logging routes on 8a.nu
(00:29:32) – Being known for his strength, and suffering during collaborations
(00:30:19) – Free soloing with Alex Honnold
(00:32:45) – Patron question from Cody: Which collaborations were the most fun?
(00:35:59) – Jujimufu
(00:37:54) – What Magnus learned from collaborating with Juji and Tom
(00:39:37) – Getting criticism from climbers, and letting go of worrying about what other people think
(00:40:49) – Anton the Russian Ninja Warrior
(00:42:09) – What Magnus has learned from spending time with Adam Ondra, and surrounding yourself with people who make you feel lazy
(00:44:19) – Finding balance vs. focusing on one thing
(00:50:58) – A week in Magnus’s life, and why he doesn’t film many outdoor videos
(00:56:37) – Common themes between top climbers, and how many of us overcomplicate our training
(00:58:23) – What climbing means to Magnus now, and wanting to climb a V15 (8C) boulder
(01:00:04) – Quitting coffee
(01:02:05) – Magnus’s go-to strength maintenance session
(01:04:12) – Why Magnus primarily climbs on commercial gym boulders
(01:05:47) – What Magnus would do if he wanted to climb his hardest again
(01:08:45) – Feeling healthier and happier at his current bodyweight
(01:11:04) – How much harder Magnus climbs without a shirt
(01:11:49) – Training on rock
(01:13:45) – Patron Question from Andrew: Biggest takeaways from training with Adam Ondra?
(01:16:39) – Watching tutorials on cameras and editing
(01:18:33) – How collaborations come about
(01:20:24) – Dream collaborations
(01:21:34) – What’s next for Magnus’s channel
(01:25:14) – Why Magnus doesn’t outsource his editing
(01:27:26) – How it works to get paid as a YouTuber, and investing in climbing gyms
(01:29:24) – What Magnus wishes he would have known earlier about YouTube, and wishing he hadn’t had respect for climbing grades
(01:33:17) – How top climbers almost have two personalities, and balancing humility with confidence
(01:35:18) – Learning to make fewer excuses, and other gifts from YouTube
(01:37:22) – Traveling, hiking, and exploring
(01:38:48) – What’s next
(01:39:30) – Where to find Magnus on the internet
EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain
EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board
Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff
EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest
EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win
EP 231: Colin Duffy (Olympian) — His Journey as a 2x Olympian, Comp Scoring & Strategy, & Future Outdoor Goals
EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records
EP 229: Shauna Coxsey (Olympian) — Climbing Harder After Pregnancy, Motivation vs. Commitment, and Letting Kids Be Themselves
EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)
EP 227: Nature Climbing — How to Prep Your Skin for a Trip, Hangboarding on Granite, and Building a Brand You Are Proud Of
EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
EP 225: Steven Gets His Dream Home Wall! | ft. Tony Bell and David Bress, Founders of Revival Climbing Coalition
EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal
EP 223: Aidan Roberts — Navigating Pro Climbing, Establishing His Two Hardest Boulders, and Glimpsing Mastery
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture
EP 221: Keenan Takahashi — ‘The Gold Standard’, Learning From Limit Moves, and the Origin Story of ANTIGRAV
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
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