The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries.
Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger.
This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge could possibly look like, but Tension Climbing has created a board with them and it’s called the Whetstone Board.
Here’s part of the description of it from Tension:
The top jug on the Whetstone is something new. The edge profile was designed to promote a more “active” grip and reduce “over-wrapping” the wrist. A series of “ergo-bumps” was included to both improve the comfort of the grip and also to act as an edge that can be draped in an open-handed grip to more evenly distribute force between each finger as an aid for rehabilitating some finger tweaks.
This is not meant to be a Whetstone advertisement and I have zero affiliation with them, just fyi. But what Tyler is talking about in the episode are those “ergo-bumps” you see in the photo above.
As always, I learned a lot from this episode and now I kinda want to get a Whetstone board…
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs
TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries
TBP 025:: Steve Maisch
TBP 024::Hazel Findlay on Humility and Being Brave
TBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in Climbing
TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54
TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding
TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d
TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids
Training Q&A Session #2
TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard
TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training
TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism
Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp3
TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects
TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment
TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It
TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight
TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send
TBP :: 010 Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio
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