The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries.
Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger.
This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge could possibly look like, but Tension Climbing has created a board with them and it’s called the Whetstone Board.
Here’s part of the description of it from Tension:
The top jug on the Whetstone is something new. The edge profile was designed to promote a more “active” grip and reduce “over-wrapping” the wrist. A series of “ergo-bumps” was included to both improve the comfort of the grip and also to act as an edge that can be draped in an open-handed grip to more evenly distribute force between each finger as an aid for rehabilitating some finger tweaks.
This is not meant to be a Whetstone advertisement and I have zero affiliation with them, just fyi. But what Tyler is talking about in the episode are those “ergo-bumps” you see in the photo above.
As always, I learned a lot from this episode and now I kinda want to get a Whetstone board…
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan
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