The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries.
Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger.
This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge could possibly look like, but Tension Climbing has created a board with them and it’s called the Whetstone Board.
Here’s part of the description of it from Tension:
The top jug on the Whetstone is something new. The edge profile was designed to promote a more “active” grip and reduce “over-wrapping” the wrist. A series of “ergo-bumps” was included to both improve the comfort of the grip and also to act as an edge that can be draped in an open-handed grip to more evenly distribute force between each finger as an aid for rehabilitating some finger tweaks.
This is not meant to be a Whetstone advertisement and I have zero affiliation with them, just fyi. But what Tyler is talking about in the episode are those “ergo-bumps” you see in the photo above.
As always, I learned a lot from this episode and now I kinda want to get a Whetstone board…
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on Navigating Training Options if You're in a Plateau
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery
TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Training and Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus
TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
Neely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven Dimmitt
TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing
TBP 175: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Wired To Hunt Podcast
Outside Podcast
Live Wild with Remi Warren