Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matty-hong
Nuggets:
0:05:51 – How Matty listens to podcasts
0:08:53 – Growing up in a climbing family, and his connection with his parents
0:13:10 – What his parents have instilled in him as a climber, and keeping the ego in check
0:15:23 – Early milestones in Matty’s climbing
0:18:41 – Loving all of the challenges and variety to be found in climbing
0:20:41 – Second-guessing the path, being grateful for climbing, and having a beginner’s mindset with photography and filmmaking
0:24:43 – Trying ‘Flex Luthor’ for a year, and the history of the route
0:30:26 – Meeting Matty up at the Fortress, and his process on ‘Flex Luthor’
0:40:45 – Patron question from Landolini: How likely is it that Tommy climbed 9b (5.15b)?
0:48:51 – Matty’s thoughts on grading
0:51:55 – Matty’s most memorable climbing achievements
0:53:53 – Climbing waterfalls in Japan with Yuji Hirayama
1:01:31 – Thoughts on adventure climbing, and his trip to India
1:06:19 – Matty’s campus board and home wall
1:09:29 – How Matty trained for ‘Flex Luthor’ on his home wall, and his relaxed approach to training
1:19:46 – Patron question from Adriel: Any tips for using bouldering as training for sport climbing? (And more about his training for Flex)
1:24:02 – Why Matty thinks sport climbing in a gym (vs. bouldering) is a waste of time
1:25:54 – Sport climbing is a strategy-based puzzle
1:28:37 – Goals and challenges
1:31:09 – Patron question from Ben: Do you have any bouldering or trad goals?
1:35:08 – Patron question from One_rocky_boi: How does Matty balance photography and filmmaking with climbing?
1:43:14 – The camera as a gift
1:45:03 – Matty’s proudest photos, and the challenges in filmmaking
1:49:39 – What’s next?
1:54:11 – Nocturne Op 62 No 1 in B (Performed by Matty Hong)
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
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