Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!
Jon’s Original Episode:
EP 50: Jon Cardwell
References:
Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+
EP 169: Scott Johnston
Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)
(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success
(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it
(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’
(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’
(00:35:53) – Constantly learning
(00:40:42) – More about his training
(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum
(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension
(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation
(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing
(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?
(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM
(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?
(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?
(01:07:12) – Wrap up
EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)
EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive
EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position” (Teaser)
EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers
EP 61: Chelsea Murn — How to Rewire Your Brain, Take Courageous Leaps, and Manifest Your Dream Life
Follow-Up: Ben Herrington — A Guide to Developing New Boulders (Teaser)
EP 60: Leif Gasch — Becoming a Trainer, Mini-Goals, and Tackling Listener Questions
EP 59: My Eating Disorder — Starving Myself to Climb Harder, and Lessons Learned
EP 58: Carlos Tkacz — Lessons from Teaching, a Free Training Book, and Self-Publishing Sci-Fi
Follow-Up: Emily Harrington — Sending 'Golden Gate', Shoe Tricks, and Pancakes (Teaser)
EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions
EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density
BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats
Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)
EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change
EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding
Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
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