Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!
Jon’s Original Episode:
EP 50: Jon Cardwell
References:
Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+
EP 169: Scott Johnston
Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)
(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success
(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it
(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’
(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’
(00:35:53) – Constantly learning
(00:40:42) – More about his training
(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum
(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension
(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation
(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing
(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?
(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM
(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?
(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?
(01:07:12) – Wrap up
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
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