Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutou
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training
(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests
(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology
(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing
(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training
(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach
(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?
(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing
(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music
(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates
(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris
(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?
(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture
(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing
(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions
(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy
(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath
(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS
(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup
(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing
(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?
(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers
(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson
(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?
(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions
(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training
(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention
(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game
(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
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