The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition
TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women's Specific Training and Nutrition Needs
TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing
TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break
TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
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