The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget
TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers
Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing
TBP 056 :: Our Shoulder Surgeon (Dr. Tom Hackett) on Shoulder Injuries
Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds
TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)
Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?
TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training
Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing
TBP 053 :: Aaron Mulkey on Ice Climbing Training
Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing
TBP 052 :: How Mathilde Becerra Is Top 10 in World for Lead Climbing
Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers
TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains
Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes
TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs
Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers
TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.12
Ask Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini Episode
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
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