The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker on Training for Alpine Climbing
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic Diet
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V14
TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym
TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet
TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods
TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40
TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2
TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14
TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game
TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently
TBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs Hard
TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades
TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders
TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training
TBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Backpacking Light Podcast
Cal’s Week in Review
The Orvis Fly-Fishing Podcast