The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment
TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers
TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes
TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy's 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries
TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us
TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports
TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c
TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d
TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route
TBP 086 :: How Paige Claassen Trained for Roof Climbing in Flatanger, Norway
TBP 085 :: Esther Smith - Neck and Back Injuries in Climbers
TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
TBP 083 :: Maureen Beck Climbs 5.11+ with One Hand
TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's
TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions
TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan
TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send
TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers
TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O'Grady
TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Wired To Hunt Podcast
Gamekeeper Podcast
The Southern Outdoorsmen Hunting Podcast