The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power.
Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them.
The thing is that it’s not super clear-cut because in climbing, we’re constantly switching from energy system to energy system. We’re not usually climbing at an easy steady state for very long, and we’re also not usually climbing super powerfully for very long. We go in and out of trying hard, resting, climbing easier stuff, etc.
So they do their best to explain what is categorized as which energy system and exactly what to do, and when, in order to get better at one or all of them.
As always, they did an amazing job of preparing for this interview, and both of them have so much experience at this point with training people that their advice is truly simple and easy to follow. I hope you enjoy this one as much as I did.
If you’re tired of going into the gym without a plan and you want a clearly laid-out program made by an experienced coach, our Bouldering Training Program is just that. And it doesn’t cost nearly as much as working one-on-one with a coach. Matt Pincus created this online subscription bouldering program based off of what has been super successful with his clients over the years.
There are 3 levels of training available to you, depending on how much experience you have with climbing training. You’ll go through non-linear cycles (learn more about what that means in the link below) of training power, strength, skill drills, and throughout it all you’ll be gaining all-day capacity.
Hundreds of people have felt an increase in their bouldering ability within weeks of being on this program, and you can too. It’s 35% off right now, and you get a 7-day free trial to see if it works for you. Go to the gym with a plan in your hand, trust the process, and see results.
TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs
TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries
TBP 025:: Steve Maisch
TBP 024::Hazel Findlay on Humility and Being Brave
TBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in Climbing
TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54
TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding
TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d
TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids
Training Q&A Session #2
TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard
TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training
TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism
Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp3
TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects
TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment
TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It
TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight
TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send
TBP :: 010 Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio
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