Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoni
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones
(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14
(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a
(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects
(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA
(00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle
(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber
(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing
(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap
(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh
(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists
(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context
(00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season
(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending
(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’
(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable
(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress
(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey
(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b
(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board
(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming
(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta
(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes
(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context
(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’
(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents
(02:10:06) – Street credit
(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-
(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders
(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration
(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone
(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person
(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is
(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do
(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day
(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal
EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent
EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)
EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
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