Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoni
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones
(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14
(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a
(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects
(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA
(00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle
(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber
(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing
(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap
(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh
(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists
(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context
(00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season
(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending
(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’
(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable
(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress
(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey
(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b
(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board
(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming
(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta
(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes
(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context
(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’
(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents
(02:10:06) – Street credit
(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-
(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders
(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration
(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone
(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person
(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is
(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do
(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day
(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
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