Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger
Nuggets:
0:06:01 – Camping iterations
0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction
0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story
0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking
0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends
0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy
0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics
0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment
0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing
0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff
0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance
0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel
0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work
0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused
1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis
1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope
1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset
1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel
1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling
1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco
1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year
1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength
1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule
1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity
1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice
1:38:27 – The eyeball story
1:58:16 – Spain
2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace
2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love
2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business
2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)
2:19:56 – How to find a good PT
2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing
2:29:35 – Wrap up
BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats
Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)
EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change
EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding
Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)
Darek Krol Memorial Clip
EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol
Merry Christmas!
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
T-Shirt Giveaway!
EP 46: Chris Kalous — Untold Stories, the Mythical Grade of A6+, and the Gift of Podcasting
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser)
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