Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger
Nuggets:
0:06:01 – Camping iterations
0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction
0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story
0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking
0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends
0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy
0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics
0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment
0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing
0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff
0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance
0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel
0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work
0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused
1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis
1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope
1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset
1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel
1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling
1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco
1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year
1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength
1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule
1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity
1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice
1:38:27 – The eyeball story
1:58:16 – Spain
2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace
2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love
2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business
2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)
2:19:56 – How to find a good PT
2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing
2:29:35 – Wrap up
EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
EP 08: Kristin Yurdin — Building a Restaurant, Redpointing 5.14a at age 42, and Advice for Shorter Climbers
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream
EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do
EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
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